Roses prefer full sun (6 hours or more) and a well-drained soil. Dig a planting hole 18? Deep and 24? In diameter. Mix 50% of your native soil with composted organic matter such as mushroom compost or composted manure. Add bone meal to encourage root growth. Our roses are growing in plantable fiber pots. If the roses are in active leaf growth, slit the pot vertically from just below the top to the bottom. Set pot in the prepared planting hole so the soil level in the pot is the same as the surrounding soil. Back fill the prepared soil around the pot and tamp down. Cut off the top of the pot that is sticking above ground. Water in well, soaking the entire planting hole. Deep water once a week during the active growing season.

We recommend fertilizing in April, June and August with a granular fertilizer (rose food). You may use a liquid food (Miracle-Gro) more frequently, or a slow release food (Osmocote) less often.

Rose diseases may be controlled by close monitoring and good sanitation. Pick off sick leaves and rake fallen leaves when they occur. Hard prune severely diseased plants and spray with a fungicide (Funginex) to prevent reinfection. Varieties that are intolerably diseased may be sprayed on a 14-21 day cycle from May through September with a fungicide. Insect pests that appear, most often aphids, may often be controlled organically with predators, a soapy solution (Safers) or a strong blast from your hose.

Lightly prune tall roses in November to prevent snow or wind breakage, with the primary pruning done in March. Most modern roses may be severely pruned, to a height of 6” to 18”. This encourages new growth and more flowers. Old roses, English roses and climbing roses prefer a more minimalist pruning, removing just the least productive old wood and damaged or diseased wood.

In late October or early November, apply an organic mulch (manure or bark) 8” to 12” up the canes. This protects against winter injury. Spread the mulch out in March when you prune your roses.

ENJOY YOUR ROSES!