Cut Flowers in June



It is a joy to pick whatever is in bloom and bring inside. June is an exciting month because so much is growing and blooming, and it seems the choices in creating a fresh cut bouquet are only limited by what grows in or around your garden.


Adding more variety to June-blooming flower gardens  takes a bit of research.  A good place to start is to know what plants you already have and continue with or diversifying from the color scheme you have already chosen. 


We have defined basic plant types below to help you understand their flowering habits followed by a list of suggested flowering plants to get the most blossoms to be used throughout the season.  


An annual is a plant that lives for one season. They tend to flower all season long and are inexpensive, bright with color and are less of a commitment.    Gardeners pair them with perennials and biennials as they are sizing up to fill in the gaps with fresh color.


Perennials come back year after year, and have shorter bloom times than annuals.  Often, gardeners will pay more for a well-established plant to get a jump start on a landscape design or replacement.  


Biennials need care over the winter and may be a bit trickier to get established.  Biennial plants grow for two seasons and don’t bloom until the second year.   


Shrubs are small to medium-sized woody plants that are distinguished from trees by their multiple stems above ground and shorter height, and are usually under 10-feet tall. 




Bachelor Buttons (Centaurea cyanus)

Cosmos, (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Larkspur (Delphinium consolida)


Zinnias, (Zinnia violacea)






Bellflower (Campanula)

Centranthus (Centranthus ruber)

(Early) Dahlias


Iris-Japanese and Siberian (Iris ensata and I. siberica)

Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)

Lily (Lilium) 

Lupine (Lupinus) 

Peony (Paeonia)

Hollyhocks (Alcea)



Foxglove (Digitalis)

Hesperis (Hesperis matronalis)

Poppy (Papaver somniferum)

Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)



Roses (Rosa)


Lilac (Syringa)

Mock Orange (Philadelphus)

Snowball (Viburnum opulus ‘Sterile’)





Cosmic Crisp

The best bare root selection of the year is now 20% off already low prices!

Choose from fruit, flowering and shade trees, berries, lilacs and hydrangeas!


“Farmers Hope New ‘Cosmic Crisp’ Will Be America’s

Next Top Apple”


Move over, Honeycrisp and Red Delicious: Farmers have a new apple they hope will be the next big fruit in the produce aisle, and it’s called the Cosmic Crisp.

Apple growers in Washington state — responsible for growing 70% of the country’s apples — have been planting millions of these new trees, reports NPR’s The Salt, though the apples themselves won’t be in stores until fall 2019.

The first plantings in the state will come out to five million 40-pound boxes of apples that will eventually be delivered to grocery stores. In comparison, it took Honeycrisp 20 years after its introduction to pull off that feat, The Salt points out.

“Hitting five million boxes right away, that’s never happened with any other variety that we’ve ever planted in Washington state,” one farmer told the blog.

Every Cosmic Crisp tree is a clone of one mother tree that started out as WA 38, in a research orchard funded by Washington State University’s breeding program.

Though the general public will have to wait a few years to try a Cosmic Crisp, those who have tasted it say it has that all-important crispy snap when you bite into it, as well as sweetness and acid creating an “almost a sensory overload for your tongue,” as The Salt puts it.


4:23 PM EST


A Shropshire Lad

Now through February 28, our biggest rose sale (and selection) of the year:
antique, English, climbing and drought-tolerant rugosa roses-20% off!!

a_shropshire_lad_1_1A Shropshire Lad

English Rose – bred by David Austin

Shrub Rose

Lovely, soft, peachy pink rosettes, with a strong, delicious fruity tea rose fragrance. Exceptionally vigorous, healthy and reliable. Almost thornless.

  • Good for disease resistance
  • Repeat Flowering
  • Highly Fragrant

The Hellebore Season

Here in the Pacific Northwest the blooming of hellebores is a favorite late winter reminder that spring is right around the corner. Hellebores are perennial and largely evergreen. Their flowers provide color and interest in the shade garden when other plants are dormant.

Helleborus orientalis


Hellebore’s most impressive feature is their five-petal bowl-shaped flowers which appear from late winter into spring in colors as diverse as apricot, yellow, green, silver-blue, slate, dusky pink, maroon and white. Some varieties feature double-petalled flowers, giving them a nostalgic rose-like quality.


Tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions, hybrid hellebores perform best when sited in partial shade in rich, moist, but well-draining soil. Hellebores are quite easy to grow, and since they are perennials, will continue to bloom for a number of years.B-Helleborus-foetidus-5
Join us in our celebration for hellebores during our 12th Annual Winter Festival, Saturaday and Sunday, February 24 and 25, 9 am – 5 pm.

For more information about our Winter Festival, click here

Garden Planning Guides 2018

It must be January.  Stacks of seed catalogs clutter the kitchen table along with new seed packets from the Nursery.  All of them needing consideration for when to be planted.  With so many choices, it can still be somewhat overwhelming.

Thankfully, there are two no-fail resources I consider for my garden planning year after year:  1.) “Seattle Tilth’s Maritime Northwest Garden Guide” and 2.) “Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades”.

Seattle TilthSeattle Tilth’s Maritime Northwest Garden Guide is an excellent tool for year-round organic gardening.  The Guide is organized in a month-by-month format and is rated the best gardening guide for the Pacific Northwest’s unique growing conditions.

The Guide contains:
•    lists of what and when to sow, plant and harvest
•    simple crop rotation plans
•    soil fertility, composting and fertilizing naturally
•    recipes, tips, and folklore

Visit for vast garden resources.
Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades

The second book is Steve Solomon’s classic ‘Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades’.  Steve Solomon, a founder of the Territorial Seed Company, was one of the early proponents of organic gardening.  Solomon was the first to codify and refine the best practices of small-plot vegetable gardening in the Pacific Northwest.

This book gets specific on growing vegetable crops and offers insightful tips for growing herbs and ornamentals in Cascadia.   Learn how to choose starts, when to sow seeds and the science of soil and garden planning.  Refer to this experience-based advice to offer low-cost ideas for season extenders on either end of our main growing period.

In its 35th Anniversary Edition, Solomon’s advice will help you plan and grow your best garden ever!

Both guides are available in our Primrose Antiques & Gifts and our Garden Store.


Nancy Stewart
Christianson’s Annual Plants and Rose Buyer

Suggestions for Basic Gardening Success from Our Seasoned Staff

Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more attractive. Plants need to be fertilized because most soils do not provide enough nblueberryourishment to keep them healthy and beautiful. Even the best soil will eventually become depleted in nutrients leaving the soil less fertile. There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen— from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissue. Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant.
Plant expert and co-worker, Katherine Shiohira, suggests specific food to customers when they purchase certain plants. For example, when buying blueberries, there is a specific fertilizer with an acidic mix (4-3-6) that blueberries love and this supplement will keep them healthy and vigorous after planting. The three numbers she describes on a fertilizer label tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This “N-P-K” ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer.
Organic fertilizer or synthetic? We recommend organic fertilizer over synthetic every time. Soils recognize organic elements that have nourished the planet for centuries. Synthetic fertilizers are man-made chemicals that interrupt the natural uptake of nutrients by the soil. They work for a while but over time they interfere with the health of the soil. Choose from organic brands in the Garden Store for everything edible that you harvest from your garden.
Liquid or pellet fertilizer? The fastest acting fertilizer will be liquid. Liquid can be applied to the soil or sprayed on the foliage. With foliar feeding plants absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. An additional benefit is that most organic foliar feeds are odor-free, with the exception of fish. The fishy smell is very slight and goes away after a few days. For the most flavorful and largest tomatoes it’s worth it. Foliar feeds are best for seasonal plantings where you want the highest quality and earliest production in edibles and annuals. Pellet fertilizers are slow release and a great food for most applications. With pellets or powders the need for fertilizing is less and they are also beneficial in the fall when you want to start the spring season with healthy plants. Always follow label directions.

Christianson’s Nursery & Greenhouse Hanging Baskets

When is a Christianson’s custom hanging basket like a flower arrangement?
When it’s designed and planted by one of three women (Laura, Elissa or Toni) who have over fifty years of combined experience with flower arranging and basket planting. We are careful to plant wonderful combinations of color and foliage texture in the five-hundred plus baskets we plant every year. We have what we consider three different groups: Romantic; all white and pastel, Bold; primary colors in sometimes shocking combinations and Patriotic; red, white and blue.

When is a Christianson’s custom hanging basket not like a flower arrangement?
When it blooms for three to four months instead of five to seven days. All our baskets, because of their larger size, are planted with fifty percent more premium soil (holds water better and is lighter weight) and a slow release fertilizer; both of which contribute to a longer bloom time than smaller baskets. They also contain more plants because of the extra planting space.   So even with the greater expense of a large basket over a smaller basket, the value is definitely there if you consider how long a bigger basket blooms. And, the value is enormous if you consider over the three to four months a large basket lasts.
When shopping for a hanging basket be sure to ask for Christianson’s custom baskets. We also plant free-standing containers for decks and patios. If you have your own containers you would like us to plant, bring them to the Nursery and ask for either Laura or Elissa. You can also bring your hanging baskets back next spring for us to plant next year. Your baskets will then be less money because you’re not paying for new baskets. Just be sure to take a picture of your basket this season if you want the same plants next year.

Plant list:

trees and shrubs • rose list 2017perennials vegetable starts and herbs

annualsannual basketsindoor plants

our plant guarantee

Trees, Berries and Shrubs

Ready to start planting?  2017 Fruit Tree & Berries

Please contact our Garden Store to check availability: (360) 466-3821.

We have acres of trees and shrubs, including: ornamental and fruiting trees, many with brilliant fall color; conifers from compact to majestic; many different types of hedging; over 70 varieties of lilacs and 50 varieties of hydrangeas during early spring with many of the varieties available year round; mock orange, spiraeas, camellias, edgeworthia and Zenobia. Over 2000 rhododendron and azalea plants from which to choose, including dwarf to tree size growing varieties and the fragrant Loderi forms. We also stock rare trees and shrubs from China, such as Loropetalum and Davidia involucrata.

Additionally we carry an extensive collection of fruit trees and fruiting shrubs suitable to our climate. They are offered in late winter as bare root plants and throughout the year as containerized plants. And, with the popularity of blueberries rising as it has, we are carrying dozens of varieties year round.

Let us know if there are plants you have not been able to find. We just may have them and, if not, John really enjoys the challenge of finding unusual plants for customers. So leave your name, number and the name of the plant you are searching for in our notebook in the Garden Store and maybe John can find it.


“I’d rather have roses on my table, than diamonds on my neck.”
– Emma Goldman

Roses are our passion. We carry over 600 varieties of roses with diversified groups of top rated roses for our climate. The groups include hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribundas, climbing, groundcover, David Austin English Roses, rugosa, and old garden roses.

Click here to download the PDF version: Rose List 2017

Call to check availability of specific varieties.   360-466-3821 or 1-800-585-8200

We carry over 600 varieties of roses with diversified groups of top rated roses for our climate. The groups include hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribundas, David Austin English Roses, climbing, rugosa, old garden roses and ground-cover roses. We have multiple reference books for your research if you are in need of help while choosing rose plants and our knowledgeable staff can always offer assistance on choices and care. Our rose list with its legend is a quick reference for customers wanting a particular color, a particular group such as hybrid teas, or only fragrant roses.

Harlow Carr

Because roses are our passion, we love to fill the Garden Store and Primrose with roses from our display garden during the spring and summer months. We also look forward to our annual Rose Festival in June where we showcase the display garden around our Schoolhouse and offer classes and clinics on rose varieties and rose care. The weather is usually cooperative and guests often picnic out on the Schoolhouse lawn. The Schoolhouse is filled with cut roses from the Tri-Valley Rose Society and it is here you can see and smell many of the most popular roses first hand. This offers a rare opportunity for those who are considering planting a rose garden. There is nothing better than seeing the real flower rather than viewing it in a picture.

Rose Care and Culture
Roses prefer full sun (6 hours or more) and well-drained soil. When planting your rose dig a hole 18″ deep and 24″ in diameter. Mix your native soil with 50% composted organic matter such as mushroom compost or composted manure. Add bone meal to encourage root growth. If you have a dog that loves to dig skip the bone meal. Plant the rose in the plantable fiber pot if it is leafed out and in active growth. Taking it out of the pot will disturb delicate roots and may put the plant into shock. Before settling the fiber pot into the hole, slit the pot vertically from just below the top to the bottom on all four sides. Set the pot in the prepared planting hole so the soil level in the pot is the same as the surrounding soil. Back fill the prepared soil around the pot and tamp down. Cut off the top of the pot that is above ground level. Forgetting to do this will cause the fiber material that is above the ground to wick water away from the rose which means the rose will need to be watered more often. Water in well, soaking the entire planting hole. Deep water once a week during the active growing season.

 We recommend feeding in April, June and August with an organic fertilizer such as Whitney Farms Rose Food and/or alfalfa meal.

The best defense against rose diseases is a healthy rose. Diseases can be controlled with healthy soil and appropriate watering and fertilizing practices. Picking off diseased leaves and raking fallen leaves when you notice them goes a long way toward growing healthy plants and blossoms. Raking rose leaves in the fall also keeps rose diseases from over wintering and infecting your roses in the spring. Avoid planting roses with a history of black spot and mildew. If you insist on growing a rose with a history of disease plan on spending more time keeping it healthy by monitoring and removing diseased leaves. These leaves should not go into your compost pile but should be burned or placed in garbage bags and sent to the dump. We have several roses in our home garden worthy of this extra effort. We would not be without an Anna Pavlova or Jude the Obscure not only because of their beauty but because of their fragrance. One Anna will fill a room with old rose fragrance while Jude does the same but with a fruity/rose scent. Insect pests that appear (most often aphids) may be controlled organically with predators, a soapy solution (Safers) or a strong blast from your hose. Powdery mildew and blackspot can be controlled with Neam oil, copper spray or sulfur spray. These products are organic and will not harm the environment.

Lightly prune tall roses in November to prevent snow or wind breakage, with the primary pruning done in March. Most modern roses may be severely pruned, to a height of 6″ to 18″. This encourages new growth and more flowers. Old roses, English roses and climbing roses prefer a more minimalist pruning, removing just the least productive old wood and damaged or diseased wood.

In late October or early November apply an organic mulch (composted manure or mushroom compost) 8″ to 12″ up the canes. This will protect against winter injury but must be pulled away and spread out in March when you prune your roses.

The above are ‘best rose practices’ and since we are hit and miss at our home, I need to say that roses are not as difficult to grow as this information may lead you to believe. If you are not growing for show but for your own enjoyment roses are fairly easy care. The most important practices being feeding in early spring and removing diseased leaves. We are not fanatical about removing the leaves but we do when we see them. Because we are not offended by an occasional spot on a leaf we are fairly casual about our roses. The pleasure of having roses definitely outweighs any negatives.